The great tire size debate 27.5 + vs 29r

There are so many different tire sizes out on the market today, question is which one makes the most sense for you? From the old school 26 inch traditional mountain bike wheels, quite honestly no one every really knew any better. Until the advent of the larger 29in wheel, this size allowed for a larger diameter, and greater rolling resistance. Now let's fast forward to the Fatbike world, true to the media and a lot of images you see...massive fat tire bikes are every where. Now this may make sense in certain situation an conditions, but it doesn't necessarily have to limit your wheel size options. Running different wheel a different wheel can make quite a bit if difference in ride quality and intended performance. In fact there are even folks running 4 plus inch tires year round!!! Below you shall find a VERY abridged simplified explanation of tire / wheels size offerings. Please note that in the effort to keep this post non techy the information below should help clarify some questions / concerns you may have. As always each rider profile and bike set up is completely different and you should do a fair amount of research before making a final purchase etc.

27.5 +

This particular wheel size offering is fairly new to the industry and certainly has it's place with many consumers. On a technical note this particular tire is three inches in width and placed onto a wider 27/5 rim. Sometimes called the "Work hourse of wheel sizes" it loves loose,variable conditions, great for pretty much anything you can throw at it. The general performance characteristics of this wheel and tire combination is very stable and grippy. For someone looking for added confidence and increasing there technical skills the 27.5+ is an excellent choice. 

29+

A 29 plus tire size generally is the first that comes to mind since it has for the most part been around the longest. On a technical note this particular tire is three inches wide and placed onto a wider 29inch rim. This particular set up is right at home railing turns and riding fast. If you are a rider that loves extra traction and float this is the tire for you. General rule of thumb, a really wide tire will give you extra float on rough terrain and a larger contact point. 

We hope these tips and suggestions help, in the mean time, happy trails & don't forget to take time to stop and enjoy the ride !!! Any other question, comments, ideas or suggestions please feel free to drop us a line: info@growlerbikes we would love to hear from you !!!

Riding Flats or Going Clip-less....

When choosing what type of pedal for your bike there are a few things to consider. From the traditional platform pedal to many of the clipless options out there it can be a bit confusing. This article will help shine some light on which option just might be the right one for you. Thank you for taking the time to stop by and give this a read by the way.

Traditional Platform Pedals

Platform pedals come in many different styles and variations. Like any accessory your are purchasing be sure to do some research to make sure this product suits your riding style & preference. Platform pedals are a very popular go to for many reasons. Primarily the choice of foot wear you use is not restricted (This will be addressed a little bit down the line). From sneakers, to hiking boots etc platform pedals allow use of almost anything...er even flip flops (um be careful with that one). Another added value is that the rider is NOT attached or connected to the pedal in any way shape or form. This allows for unlimited freedom of movement and easy dismounts in and situation. Platform pedals generally are more robust by nature which means that the occasional fall or contact with rocks etc wont leave you with a broken pedal. If you are looking for a performance option they do make lighter low profile versions with replaceable pins for added traction. Side note....these are NOT shine or leg friendly "slipping off" these pedals can hurt. Also...nothing hurts more that catching a pedal to the shin...so be aware of this option. Only down side to platform pedals... because of the unrestricted movement they will not be as efficient in terms of energy out put and easy of climbing etc.

Clipless Pedals

Clipless pedals for many seem very intimidating right from the get go. Like anything you try for the first time getting better at it takes practice. Which brings us to the point of clipless pedals...this option requires a specific shoe that has a special "cleat" on the bottom. When the rider clips in...it's as solid of an interface as you get. For this particular set up you will need to invest into a pair of clipless pedal shoes (These particular shoes have special cleat mounts on the bottom of the shoe). Good news the clipless pedal shoes come in MANY different styles were are sure will find something that fits your style & look etc. From an efficiency perspective this is as good as it gets, much better power transfer and almost mini energy waste. One of the most noticeable differences is riding will be on flats surfaces and ease of climbing. In terms of freedom of movement etc. many of the pedals systems have some "float" or play. (This is a bit more restricting than the platform pedal option). When it comes to releasing from the pedal this is the part that does take a bit of practice. For pedal release the rider has to move their heel away from the crank arm. To get this particular effort down to a science it's best to practice with one foot first at a time BEFORE clipping both feet in. To avoid any major slams while learning try riding in a grassy field OR put your bike on a stationary trainer. The above tips will definitely fast track you to getting the hang of clipping in and out of the pedals. (Pro Tip: When learning to ride clipless pedals off road for the first time avoid super technical terrain) 

I hope these tips and suggestions help, in the mean time, happy trails & don't forget to take time to stop and enjoy the ride !!! Any other question, comments, ideas or suggestions please feel free to drop me a line I would love to hear from you !!!

Are You Ready ?

Hey there.

Time and time again I tried to figure out a way to get my voice out there. Today a I sit in from of my PC and want to reconnect with a community I have almost but forgotten. What happened? Well a Marriott of life changes to say the least. Some of us are rather adapt to keeping up with the Jones, and some not so much. Here I am just tapping away waiting for that right direction of my life to kick in. I'm happy, I'm satisfied life is definitely been good to me. Or have I been cheating myself? 

One of the things that I'm striving to get better at is letting go. Letting go of anger, frustration...all things that I have NO control over that have been literally crippling my life, my relationships, and most importantly my family. I guess it's the small things that you do each day that matter. Taking a series of small steps each day to better yourself. Self improvement , self healing...One of my favorite quotes: "There are plenty of obstacles in your path, don't let yourself be one of them.." 

I don't ever recall saying that I was perfect, shit I have plenty if issues and we all know that.

Helmets

Helmets come in many different styles the one thing they all have in common is protecting you! In this article we will cover different styles, cost factors, ratings, and proper fit.

Mountain biking helmets generally fall into five categories:

1. Standard Issue
2. Skate Style
3. Full Face
4. Cross Country
5. Kids

What affects helmet costs?

When it comes to safety any helmet is clearly better that no helmet at all. How a helmet is manufactured and the level of technology that goes into will affect the cost. For example: More vents will often equal more money, internal frames, molded shells etc. Exotic composites are definitely another price influence. Also more available sizing options. 

What exactly does Helmet rating mean anyway?

Maybe you have noticed or maybe not at all but your helmet actually does have a "rating" There are a number of standards that will certify which helmets are idea for certain activities etc. For example a full face downhill helmet has a much greater "speed rating" that a cross country or kids helmet. 

• DOT vs. Snell vs. CPSC vs. ASTM ???
• The above entities are in place to list guidelines for intended helmet usage. 
• CPSC - (Consumer Product Safety Commission) Adequate for regular bicycle use, falls short for extreme riding or motorized use. 
• DOT  Approved for motorized usage 
• While DOT-approved helmets are considered safe for motorized use, Snell standards are still higher and include a system for testing the chin bar’s strength—something that neither the CPSC or the DOT cover—making Snell-approved helmets ideal for competition motor sports and aggressive DH, as well. Snell- and DOT-approved helmets can also be subjected to multiple impacts. (BackCountry.com)
• ASTM- (American Society of Testing Materials) ASTM helmet regulations don’t meet the DOT’s penetration and multiple-impact standards, but they do meet or exceed impact standards—and, like Snell, ASTM has a chin bar standard. What this means is ASTM-certified helmets are lighter, well ventilated and provide adequate one-use-impact protection for all-mountain and free riding. (BackCountry.com)

So how is a helmet supposed to fit?
Once you have finalizing which helmet that is going to fit the particular style of riding it's time to talk fit.  Helmets should not be too loose, nor should the fit be to tight. If your not sure of your head size a tape measure works well, or simple have your local bike retailer size you up. A proper fitting helmet is once that should be level on the head (like wearing a baseball cap). Helmets that are improperly fitting, loose etc will most certainly not do the proper job of protecting the rider. In-regards to the straps, depending on the brand and style. they should be set up to make a "v" with your ears properly centered. The clip / closure of the helmet should be such that you are able to place a finger and a half under your chin when the strap is buckled. Please also note that unless your helmet is a skate style (multi-impact) upon any type of fall inspect helmet and replace it.

What happens if I crash:
Well hopefully the crash was not anything to serious...good news you were wearing a helmet (LOL)
First things first make sure YOU are ok, NOT the your bike. If you do need medical assistance dial 911 or get help. (Pro-Tip: Having some type of personal identification is critical especially in a situation where you have become unconscious. In a pinch, even a piece of masking tape  placed inside your helmet with your name and emergency contact number is key.) In regards to your helmet...if the fall caused you to hit your head etc...time for a new helmet. Yes I know you may disagree, but sometimes damage to the helmet might not exactly be visible to the naked eye. Good news, many of the better manufactures have "crash replacement" programs which offer some type of new helmet purchase incentives. Otherwise...the helmet will more than likely NOT do what it's supposed to and protect your head properly the next time...

I hope these tips and suggestions help, in the mean time, happy trails & don't forget to take time to stop and enjoy the ride !!! Any other question, comments, ideas or suggestions please feel free to drop me a line I would love to hear from you !!!

Proper Hydration tips

Did you know? The average adult human body is 50-65% water, averaging around 57-60%. Body composition varies according to gender and fitness level because fatty tissue contains less water than lean tissue. That said staying hydrated should be a significant part of any daily activity. 

When you are heading out for a ride always bring water with you. For example an average ride of 45 min or more your going to want to bring at least one or two bottles of water. Certainly with the many hydration options out there you could take more. 

When is a good time to drink? Follow this rule of thumb..."drink often drink always" In fact in most cases by the time that you are "thirsty" you body actually needs a fair amount of water replenishment. 

Signs of Dehydration:

• Increased thirst.
• Dry mouth and swollen tongue.
• Weakness.
• Dizziness.
• Palpitations (feeling that the heart is jumping or pounding)
• Confusion.
• Sluggishness fainting.
• Fainting.

Cold weather hydration:

When exercising in colder temps you certainly can become dehydrated. Yes believe it or not your body will lose a fair amount of water due to perspiration. The critical point is that because you may not necessarily feel "hot or sweaty" your body is working quite a bit harder than you realize. In cold weather, the body’s thirst response is diminished (by up to 40 percent even when dehydrated) This happens because our blood vessels constrict when we’re cold to prevent blood from flowing freely to the extremities. This enables the body to conserve heat by drawing more blood to its core.

Hydration tips:

• Use insulated water bottles (They have thermal liners which will prolong water from freezing)
• Place water into your containers as warm as you can (This will also prolong freezing)
• Use a back pack hydration system with an insulated bladder and drinking hose. 

Each of the above tips are a few different suggestions that can help you with proper hydration. One key thing to keep in mind that the colder the temps and the more extreme the conditions water will eventually freeze regardless of your efforts. So keeping that in mind you may want to shorten the duration of your outdoor activity. 

Warm weather hydration:

In warmer conditions hydration is even more critical. Because of the fact that it is warmer yes you will be sweating. In some cases if you are riding and there is a breeze etc you might not even be able to tell. So what to you do to stay hydrated? Again follow the rule of thumb, "Drink often, drink always. Make sure to NOT run out of water if you do make sure to stop an replenish asap! 

Hydration tips:

• To keep water cold longer try putting water bottles (not filled to the top) in freezer
• Insulated bottles actually can keep water cooler on rides
• Hydration back pack / waist pack allow for easy hauling of extra water
• Try using an electrolyte hydration tablets (Nuuns / Camel Bak Elixer etc) 
• Mix energy drinks in your water 

We hope these tips and suggestions help, in the mean time, happy trails & don't forget to take time to stop and enjoy the ride !!! Any other question, comments, ideas or suggestions please feel free to drop us a line: info@growlerbikes we would love to hear from you !!!

Tire pressure makes a difference...

First things first, always include checking your bicycles tire pressure each and every time you ride. Just exactly why you do this has a number of benefits that we are going to cover trough out this article.

How to determine the correct  / recommended tire  pressure

In most cases the you can find the recommended tire pressure on the side wall of the tire itself. This particular recommendation is what the manufacture suggests / recommends for optimal performance. Now here's the exception...not all conditions / riding surfaces will require the same tire pressures.

Inflation 

There are a number of effective way's to inflate your tires. The best method without question is to invest in a good quality floor pump that has a pressure indicator gauge. Knowing rather that guessing exactly how much pressure that you are putting into your tires is a good thing. Also for some specialty applications you may want to purchase and old school tire gauge or even a new style hand held digital tire pressure gauge.

Cause & Effect

A tires performance can and will significantly change when the pressure is either too high or too low.

Having a tire that is over inflated will make for a very bumpy and jarring ride. You will also notice that due to the higher inflation less of the tire is actually in contact with the trail etc. This certainly gives you a faster rolling tire...but you will definitely loose overall traction and cornering capability. Most ideal situation for this would be riding on very firm hard or paved surfaces etc.

Riding your tires with pressure too low gives you more tread contact, and climbing traction....BUT beware of flats and or rim damage from running into things or bottoming out the wheel. A lower tire pressure will also create more tire drag which may require a bit more effort to keep the wheels rolling. You may also want to take some consideration in any high speed situations and or hard cornering maneuvers.

Ideally a tire that is properly inflated will take sometime and efforts to figure out. Most will tell you in you can manipulate the tire by pushing your thumb into the tire with a little bit  of effort you are good. Now that by no means is a scientific equation to tire pressure success. Talk with the professionals i.e. those that know. Take the guess work out and go with some recommended pressures depending on the situation and circumstances under which you will be riding. As always be sure to bring a portable bike pump  & pressure gauge with you to make any changes just in case.

Lastly another great bit of advice is keep track of the tire pressures that you run in certain conditions by writing them down, This may seen a bit nerdy, how ever as you get out and ride in different conditions you will be better able to set up your ride more accordingly.

We hope these tips and suggestions help, in the mean time, happy trails & don't forget to take time to stop and enjoy the ride !!! Any other question, comments, ideas or suggestions please feel free to drop us a line: info@growlerbikes we would love to hear from you !!!

Bike Cleaning Tips

Keeping your bike clean does not have to be a hassle. This article will cover a number of helpful tips to cleaning your bike.

So you have not cleaned your bike in a while you say? No worries,  keep reading...we will have you up to speed with all of the latest tips in no time. Believe or not you don't necessarily need to have all of the tools the pro's use to clean your bike. A lot of around the house items when it comes to cleaning your bike will work in a pinch. However...for more information, product guidance etc. please check with your favorite local bike shop.

Suggested "around the house items" for cleaning your bike:

• Dish Soap 
• Large Sponge
• Simple Green
• Clorox Wipes
• Pledge
• Citrus Cleaners
• Laundry Soap
• Windex
• Car Polish
• Tooth brush
• Dish Scrub Brush
• Bottle Brush
• Good old bucket
• Garden Hose
• WD40

Store bought cleaning items / products (Suggested):

• Bike Wash 
• Chain Lube
• Bike Polish
• Chain Cleaner
• Set of bike brushes
• Bike Degreaser
• Bike Stand

Bike Cleaning 101:

1. Using a hose (If available) very lightly spray the entire bike / DO NOT Spray directly into any of the critical gear or bearing areas ie: Headset / Bottom bracket / Suspension pivots etc. This will cause some serious damage and other issues. If no hose is available a large bucket with warm water and a cleaning solution will work just fine. (Pro Tip: For serious cleaning/maintenance is to keep separate bucket/brush systems keeping greasy water/brushes away from 'clean' brushes/wash water. It's easy to mistakenly scrub rim braking surfaces with a brush that you might have scrubbed the chain with....not good.) ~Michael Newberry
2. Start from the top down: Meaning that you want to take the dirt / grime off the bike so that you are not having to clean your bike twice! Generally at this point you want make sure that your are generously sponging and cleaning the entire bike. Once this is finished gently rinse your bike off to remove the dirt and grime etc. If this first effort does not completely clean your bike then simply repeat the process. This not only loosens up the dirt and grime it will make then next phase a lot easier. (Pro tip: Using and old tooth brush or small brush will help get that hard to reach dirt / mud and grime.) 
3. Using a greaser type product now is a good time to clean the rear cassette and your chain. Some may cleaning the chain is the last thing you do...either way place it with in the cleaning phase as to be able to NOT have to mess up all of your hard work and effort to clean your bike in the first place. If you have one a chain cleaning device works really well. This is a multi step process of  degreasing/cleaning chain then applying the appropriate lubricant desired. Make sure NO matter what after cleaning your bike to lubricate your chain. If left untouched it will begin to rust. When lubricating your chain simply back pedal your bike and very lightly apply your lubricant of choice. Remember a little dab will do you just fine. Using an old rag in hand you can remove the excess lubricant.  It's also a good idea not to forget those jockey wheels on your rear derailleur as well. 
4. Once you have completed the above steps, make sure to thoroughly dry your bike off. This step sometimes is over looked believe it or not. To get the excess water off try lightly bouncing bike up and down on it's tires. Also if you have not thoroughly cleaned your bike off this is the point where you will be able to tell where you missed some spots. (Pro Tip: If you have disc brakes be sure to wipe the discs off till dry or as best you can, this not only will prevent rust, it should hopefully prevent squeaky disc brakes)
5. Bike polish etc...Why would I do this in the first place? Well great question, other than one extra added step, polishing your bike will actually keep it cleaner longer! Some will argue this theory...but think about when you wax your vehicle. When it rains etc...the water beads off. Well not exactly sure this type of reaction will happen with your bike. We can tell you that this process will actually impede any of the dirt and grim from easily collecting on your bike. Hence your bike in theory will stay cleaner longer.  

Reader Tips: 

Save the old snow brushes from your car when the scraper blade busts off. Along with Dawn and water, they're perfect for scrubbing the grit off a dirty drive-train, and they (mostly) get into the cogs, too. ~T. Franz

I used a hacksaw blade that I flattened in a vice so the teeth are flush with the surface. I used it for cutting a door jam where it meet the floor like a Japanese saw. Flatten the teeth in a vice will ensure the blade won't rip the t-shirt rag but probably not necessary to do. For the rear cassette I use a hacksaw blade wrapped in a piece of old t-shirt dipped in degreaser. It gets in between the cogs nicely. Also for the same thing I sometimes switch to a 5" length of nylon flat tie down strap also dipped and saturated in degreaser. ~Scott Hamilton

Any microfiber sponge from your local auto parts store and a bucket of car wash soap. Park tool chain cleaner. Wd40 bike wash with old t-shirt if you want that new bike shine! Gets the bike like new. ~David Toth 

Five gallon bucket with hot soapy water, I usually use a mild auto style soap to protect the finish. First use a gentle spray of water to get most dirt loose. Then spray dirty, greasy areas with a good bike grade degreaser let it sit for a bit. 
I use long handled auto style brushes a stiffer one for drivetrain and wheels soft for frame. Rinse it of with a gentle spray. I use one of those garden plant sprayer heads. It'll save you dough on bearings.~Dan Park 

Soapy sponge or soft brush for frame & wheels, various separate smaller brushes for the drivetrain. Rinse gently with hose, or 1-gallon pump sprayer if you live in an apartment like me. Park Tool chain cleaner thingy with some degreaser(keep it off the disc) once it a while when it's really ugly. Re-lube everything, drink a beer, smile. ~Glen Wallace

Calvin Jones from Park Tools has a sweet demo video on the site! ~Justin Rumley 

There's a big difference between cleaning a bike and cleaning the drivetrain. The frame and wheels need a soapy degreaser and the drivetrain needs petrol based solvent. Never easy! I usually throw chains away by the time they need that kind of cleaning, after 2-3000 miles they are pretty wrecked and not worth the mess, usually a bit stretched and jumpy as well. Tri-Flow is your friend. ~Ivan M. Altinbasak